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How to buy a house without mortgage

Just in case some people did not consider the real difference between rent and mortgage, here is the calculation of the real data.

So, take a calculator (or Excel), remember the math for the 3rd grade of secondary school and together consider what is more profitable: rental housing or a mortgage.

All the above prices are valid for January 19, 2014, for the city of Murmansk. In your city the situation will be different, but hardly a lot, because the “free market” almost everywhere “self regulated” the relationship between housing cost and rent hop over to these guys.

Finotec and the cost of money calculated by the mortgage calculator on the website of Sberbank. For most regions they will be the same as in my calculation.

2-room apartment with an area of 56 m in a panel 9-storey house, built just over 20 years ago. Without repair, almost without furniture, old fridge, old stove and a washing machine.

Realtors stated the cost of such apartments – 2,590,000 rubles.
In order to be closer to reality and farther from real estate expectations, further calculations will hold for the price of 2,500,000 rubles.

The cost of renting an apartment – 17,000 rubles, including utilities but excluding electricity and Internet.
First, the realtors wanted to 18,000, but in the end we agreed with the owner for 17,000 rubles a month, plus have agreed that any improvements made by me will be credited against rent.

Since electricity and the Internet in the end, you will have to pay separately from the apartment and communal, then I think all will agree that in the calculations to take them into account is not necessary, as other articles of the family budget. Consider only housing.

Consider the option of purchasing this apartment in debt

Go to the website of Sberbank which are driven in a mortgage calculator the figure of 2,500,000 rubles, specify the minimum down payment (15%), selectable General conditions and performed two calculations at 10 years (120 months) and 20 years (240 months).

We find that we in any case need to immediately pay for the apartment 375,000 rubles, and then:
1) or to pay 38,068 rubles a month for 10 years;
2) or to pay 30,635 rubles a month for 20 years.

The overpayment on the loan for the entire term will be 2,068,228 or 4,852,432 respectively.

The numbers are not small, but nevertheless, we should add the cost of the communal apartment, for rent apartments it is included, and a mortgage – no.

In my case the landlord tablet that Gomulka cost him in the region of 7,500 rubles a month. Personally, I’m inclined to believe him, because firstly he pays for it himself out of a fixed lease payment and therefore it makes no sense me to deceive, and secondly, that apartment is bought from the parent capital for his younger children, and therefore it is most likely spelled out several people in his family that affects the cost of utilities.

Anyway, let’s get the true volume of utility bills will take 5,000 rubles. For dvuhkomnatnaya apartment in my town is a very small figure. But even if it will differ from this value, it will not greatly distort our further calculations.

Now we add these 5,000 rubles to the mortgage payments and we have this picture:
1) we will have to pay 43,062 ruble monthly for 10 years, or;
2) we have to pay 35,635 rubles every month for 20 years.

Remember these figures. Double-talking dirty to address the greedy bankers. Close the Bank’s website and proceed to the most interesting.

We accept these appalling conditions. Accept unconditionally as an objective reality, to change that right now we are not able to. So we are preparing for this insane amount of payments for the murdered Soviet kopeck piece in the socket… and take the apartment.

Take an apartment in rent to “overpay alien uncle”

Rent an apartment and live in it for 17 000 rubles a month. BUT:
1) when moving into this apartment we should already be 375,000 rubles, which we have NOT given up on the first installment;
2) every month we should have on hand for 43,062 or 35,635 rubles (depending on the term of the loan), which we do NOT pay on the mortgage.

The availability of this money is fundamentally important. If we took out a mortgage, then we would have to pay these amounts each month, whatever happens. Imagine that your property is pledged to the Bank and be ready at the end of each month to have one of these amounts on his hands, as if you get evicted for late payment!

Now and in the future, of these the monthly amount we paid rent in the amount of 17,000 rubles, and the rest is calm, disciplined, and unyielding ACCUMULATE on their homes.

Repair, furniture, household items and much more, which inevitably will require spending on a new residence buy and paid from any other money! Monthly payments NOT SPENT only ACCUMULATE!

And that’s what we get as a result.

In the beginning of the year (we just moved into an apartment) we have 375,000 rubles which was the first vzones. Year live, every month we accumulate the difference between the anticipated mortgage and real estate at the end of the year we get:

Year 1:
(43,062 – 17,000) 12 = 312,744 savings 375,000 = 687.744 rubles or
(35,635 – 17,000) 12 = 223,620 savings 375,000 = 598,620 rubles

Year 2:
687,744 312,744 = 1,000,488 rubles
598,620 223,620 = 822,240

Year 3:
1,000,488 312,744 = 1,313,232
822,240 223,620 = 1,045,860

Then everyone can calculate itself, just adding 312,744 or 233,620 each year, respectively, selected the term “mortgage”.

Too lazy to take it to report:
instead of a mortgage for 10 years you accumulate quietly in my apartment for 7 years, instead of the mortgage at 20 years, you save up for an apartment for 10 years and another 100,000 rubles are.

Taking into account the money that you spent on rent, you will save on Bank interest and 640,228 2,812,432 rubles, respectively (17,000 multiplied by the number of months of the lease until, when we have enough to buy an apartment and subtract the result from the anticipated amount of the overpayment).

With this, you for 7 or 10 years to live in peace, without debts and with a significant “cushion” cache for emergency use!

A sudden illness or job loss will not lead you to eviction

If you have any problems with money, you may have to spend on rent a bit out of accumulated (and thus fall back on the way to their goal) but this is in extreme cases and only at that time, while you will find a new job.

Agree, this is not the same thing to stay on the street so even with the debt (banks in case of late payments taken away from the apartment to offset the debt for a very little price, and you should be accrued interest and lose already paid).

All lyrics like “live in your home”, “don’t need to live on private rented quartara”, “but can do the repair” actively imposed by banks is nothing more than an illusion. In case of any problems with your ability to pay, the Bank will very quickly show you whose apartment you actually are.

But when renting, all these elementary questions are addressed by contract with the owner, kotomo he has no right to evict you for a certain period, cannot be evicted without prior notice and can raise the rent by no more than a certain number of percent per year.

A little bit about the growth of prices and percentages

By the way, about the growth of the lease, increase the value of the apartment and other cent… Here I can scold for that scenario, but from a song words not throw and, if you allow conscience and beliefs, it can be used for the benefit of themselves fucking the conditions of the capitalist system.

In short – if you don’t have any business or investment skills, you can not really philosophizing to hand over the money lenders-bankers money at interest in the form of a regular contribution and to compensate for inflation, possible increase in the cost nedvizhki and at the same time and seriously accelerate the growth of your savings.

Let’s calculate what would happen if you instead of saving money in the mattress (or wherever you have them hiding there) you will take them to the Bank for Deposit at the rate of 10% per annum and will be every year to renew the Deposit with interest capitalization, adding to them their savings.

The beginning of the first year:
throw on Deposit 375.000, tecnolandia on the first installment.

Year 1 is over:
we have in the Bank is 375.000 1,1 = 412,500 to which is added (43,062-17,000)12 = 312,744 savings and get
412,500 312,744 = 725,244
412,500 223,620 = 636,120

Year 2:
725,244 1,1 312,744 = 1,110,512
636,120 1,1 223,620 = 923,352

Year 3:
1,110,512 1,1 312,744 = 1,534,308
923,352 1,1 223,620 = 1,239,307

Year 4:
1,534,308 1,1 312,744 = 2,000,482
1,239,307 1,1 223,620 = 1,586,858

Year 5:
2,000,482 1,1 312,744 = 2,513,151 It?
1,586,858 1,1 223,620 = 1,969,164

Year 6:
Who wanted a mortgage of 10 years, for a whole year living in my own apartment.
Or continues to rent the old apartment, the cost of which are fully covered by the Bank interest (about 20,900 per month).

Year 7:
Who wanted a mortgage for 20 years, buys an apartment for 2,628,670 rubles at the end of 7 years, or stays in a rented apartment, paying for rent Deposit interest, which accumulates a little more than 21,000 rubles a month.

Here is simple math buy3clh.
15 minutes of calculations, which allow to save from 5 to 13 years of life, when the mortgage would have to work for the bankers.

It is clear that the investment of money on Deposit, received, the percentage you have to work with lovers to take plasma or jeep on credit, so if you don’t want to participate in the robbery of those impatient friends, then just save up without investment in the Bank. Still, it will be much more profitable than to keep bankers and to join the ranks of people spending other people’s money.

How to Buy a House

For many people, it’s the biggest financial transaction they’ll ever make. That’s why doing it right the first time is so important. Sometimes, buying a house can feel like a dizzying set of rules and regulations. Luckily, armed with the right knowledge and know-how, you can start realizing your homeowner dreams — the fast, easy, way.

Strengthen your credit. The higher your FICO score, which ranges from 300 to 850, the better interest rate you’ll qualify for. The difference between a 4.5% interest mortgage and a 5% interest mortgage can mean tens of thousands of dollars over the life of the loan. Get a free copy of your credit report so you can see what the lenders see on your credit history. Pay off credit cards and resolve any credit disputes or delinquencies. In general, scores between 650-700 will get the average rate. A higher score it will get a great .25% reduction, but a score below that will cause a significant increase in your interest rates.

Get pre-approved to get the actual amount you can pay. Apply to several lenders within a two week period so that the inquiries do not damage your credit report. Do this before contacting a real estate agent so you have a firm idea of what you can afford, and you don’t accidentally fall in love with a [house] [2]that you cannot afford.
Seller love buyers who get pre-approved. Pre-approved buyers are almost always given the green light by lenders, meaning there’s less risk for the deal to get scuttled in the end.
Don’t accidentally get pre-qualified instead of pre-approved. There’s a difference. Pre-approval means that the lender is usually prepared to give you a loan after seeing your financial vitals. Pre-qualified only means that the lender is estimating what you could borrow. It doesn’t mean you’ll get a loan.

Shop for your mortgage. Wait — why would I shop for a mortgage before deciding on a house? Isn’t that totally backward?[4] Not necessarily. Shopping for a mortgage before you decide on a house can be beneficial for one overriding reason:
You’ll know exactly how much you can borrow before you buy your home. Too many people fall in love with a home that they — well — can’t afford. They struggle finding a mortgage that covers the cost of the home. Finding a mortgage first and a home second is decidedly less sexy, but it’s twice as smart. You’ll immediately be able to tell whether a home is in your price range or out of it.
Think about the sort of down-payment you’ll be able to afford. This should be part of your mortgage calculations, although you don’t need to know for sure when shopping for a mortgage. Have a general idea in mind. More on this later in the article.

Find out what ratios lenders are using to determine if you qualify for a loan. “28 and 36” is a commonly used ratio. It means that 28% of your gross income (before you pay taxes) must cover your intended housing expenses (including principal and interest on the mortgage, as well as real estate taxes and insurance). Monthly payments on your outstanding debts, when combined with your housing expenses, must not exceed 36% of your gross income. Find each percentage for your monthly gross income (28% and 36% of $3750 = $1050 and $1350, respectively). Your monthly payments on outstanding debts cannot exceed the difference between the ($300) or else you will not be approved.

If you qualify, check out first-time buyers’ programs tamiflu online. These often have much lower down payment requirements. These are offered by various states and local governments. You may also be able to access up to $10,000 from your 401(k) or Roth IRA without penalty. Ask your broker or employer’s human resources department for specifics regarding borrowing against those assets.

Talk to and retain a lawyer (optional). If you expect the buying of the house to be a simple, straightforward affair, then you’ll probably only need a realtor, the escrow company, and perhaps a mortgage broker. But then again, when do things ever go as expected. Hire an honest, reputable, (relatively) cheap lawyer if:
The cost of the lawyer is a drop in the bucket compared to the total you are likely to spend for the home.
The home you are buying is either in foreclosure or in probate, which means that the home is being distributed as part of a deceased person’s estate.
You suspect the seller might try to quickly back out of the deal or you don’t trust them.
Your state requires a lawyer at closing. Six states currently require a lawyer present.[5] Talk to your state commission of real estate to find out if it’s common practice in your state.

Shopping for a Home

1.Find a good real estate agent to represent you in the search and negotiation process. The real estate agent should be: amiable, open, interested, relaxed, confident, and qualified. Learn the agent’s rates, methods, experience, and training. Look for a realtor who lives local, works full time, closes at least several properties per year, and has a reputation for being busy. Read more in How to Select a Realtor.
A realtor’s job is to connect people who want to buy and sell a particular home. For this reason, a realtor has an interest in selling homes. A very good realtor will use her experience to sell the right home to the right buyer — you. A Realtor who is a neighborhood specialist will often have particular expertise in the neighborhood you are targeting and can give you pros and cons that a more generalist cannot.
When you do find your realtor, go into exhaustive detail when describing what you want in a home — number of bathrooms and bedrooms, attached garage, land and anything else that may be important, such good lighting or yard space for the kids.

Sign up for an MLS alert service to search on properties in your area. A Multiple Listing Service will give you a feeling for what is on the market in your price range. Your agent can do this for you.
If you sign up through a real estate agent, it is poor form to call the listing agent directly to see a house. Don’t ask an agent to do things for you unless you’re planning to have them represent you — they don’t get paid until a client buys a house and it’s not fair to ask them to work for free, knowing that you’re not going to use them to buy your home!

3.Start looking for houses within your range. Most lenders suggest that you pay no more than 38% of your monthly income towards your mortgage and debts combined. This means, on any given month, no more than 38% of your paycheck goes to paying back loans. You should use an online Home Affordability Calculator to find your own sweet spot. However, for a good idea of the house you can afford, tally up your current monthly bills, including credit cards, student loans, etc, and compare them against your income in the following sheet:[6]

Start to think about what you’re really looking for in a home. You probably already have a vague idea, but the angel’s in the details. There are a couple things in particular that you and your family should give good thought to:
What will you and your family need in several years?[7] Maybe you’re just a couple right now, but are there are plans for kids in the future? A home that snugly fit two people could be torturous for three or four.
What trade offs are you willing to make? In other words, what are your priorities? Although we like to believe that buying a house can be straightforward, it’s often a complex ordeal in which we’re forced to compromise. Do you care more about a safe neighborhood and good schools over a big backyard? Do you need a big, workable kitchen more than a big luxurious bedroom? What are you willing to sacrifice when it’s crunch time?
Do you expect your income to increase over the next couple years? If your income has increased by 3% for several years in a row and you hold a secure job in a safe industry, you can probably rest assured that buying an expensive but still reasonable mortgage is possible. Many homebuyers buy relatively expensive and then grow into their mortgage after a year or two.

Define the area you’d like to live in. Scout out what’s available in the vicinity. Look at prices, home design, proximity to shopping, schools and other amenities. Read the town paper, if there is one, and chat with the locals. Look beyond the home to the neighborhood and the condition of nearby homes to make sure you aren’t buying the only gem in sight.
The area in which your home is located is sometimes a bigger consideration than the home itself, since it has a major impact on your home’s resale value. Buying a fixer-upper in the right neighborhood can be a great investment, and being able to identify up-and-coming communities — where more people want to live — can lead you to a bargain property that will only appreciate in value.

Visit a few open houses to gauge what’s on the market and see firsthand what you want. Pay attention to overall layout, number of bedrooms and bathrooms, kitchen amenities, and storage. Visit properties you’re seriously interested in at various times of the day to check traffic and congestion, available parking, noise levels and general activities. What may seem like a peaceful neighborhood at lunch can become a loud shortcut during rush hour, and you’d never know it if you drove by only once.

Look at comparable houses in the neighborhood. If you are unsure about the price, have the home appraised by a local appraiser, who also look at comparables. When appraising a home, appraisers will look for comparables or “comps”, homes in the area which have similar features, size, etc. If your home is more expensive than the comps, or the appraiser has to find comps in a different subdivision or more than 1⁄2 mile (0.8 km) away, beware! Never buy the most expensive house in the neighborhood. Your bank may balk at financing the home, and you probably won’t see your home appreciate in value very much. If you can, buy the least expensive home in a neighborhood — as homes around you sell for more money than you paid, your home’s value increases.

Making an Offer

If possible, tailor your bid to the seller’s circumstances. This is not easy, and often impossible, but it doesn’t hurt to try when making one of the biggest purchases in your life. Here are some things to keep in mind as you think about your offer:
What is the seller’s financial prospects? Are they in desperate need of money or are they sitting on a pile of cash? Cash-strapped sellers will be more likely to take an offer that undercuts their asking price.
How long has the home been on the market? Homes that have been on the market for longer periods of time can usually be bid down.
Have they already bought another house? If the sellers aren’t currently living in the house they’re trying to sell, it may be easier to bid less than you otherwise might.

Look at comparables when you make your bid. What did other homes in the neighborhood start off as (“asking price”), and what did they sell at? If homes in the area routinely sold for 5% below asking price, think about making an offer that’s anywhere from 8% to 10% lower than the asking price.[8]

3.Calculate your expected housing expenses. Estimate the annual real estate taxes and insurance costs in your area and add that to the average price of the home you’re trying to buy. Also add how much you can expect to pay in closing costs. (These take in various charges that generally run between 3 to 6 percent of the money you’re borrowing. Credit unions often offer lower closing costs to their members.) Put the total into a mortgage calculator (you can find them online or make your own in a spreadsheet. If the figure is above 28% of your gross income (or whatever the lower percentage used by lenders in your situation) then you will have a hard time getting a mortgage.
Determine whether you need to sell your current home in order to afford a new one. If so, any offer to buy that you make will be contingent on that sale. Contingent offers are more risky and less desirable for the seller, since the sale can’t be completed until the buyer’s house is sold. You may want to put your current house on the market first.

If you absolutely fall in love with a home, be prepared to make an offer that’s above the asking price. Economics of supply and demand will sometimes force your hand. If many people are competing for few homes, be prepared to lead with your highest possible offer. Some homebuyers don’t believe that you should lead with your highest offer, but you could easily find yourself being outbid and never get the chance to bid on your house. If you want to give yourself the best shot on a home that you really, really like, lead with a high bid.

Talk to your realtor when you’re ready to formally present your offer. Although the guidelines for submitting offers may differ from state to state, this is usually how it goes: You submit your offer to your realtor, who then forwards it to the seller’s representative. The seller then decides to accept, reject, or make a counter-offer.
Include earnest money with your offer. Once you sign an offer, you are officially in escrow, which means you are committed to buy the house or lose your deposit, unless you do not get final mortgage approval or something came up during your inspection contingency time that you cannot accept. During escrow (typically 30 to 90 days), your lender arranges for purchase financing and finalizes your mortgage.

Finalizing the Deal

Determine how much of a down payment you’ll need to offer up front. A down payment establishes equity, or ownership, in a home. That’s also money that you don’t have to pay interest on. The more of a down payment you’re able to make on your home, the less money you’ll ultimately pay on your home.
You will be expected to put down 10-20% of the appraised value of a home. Note that the appraised value may be higher or lower than the selling price of the house. If you have $30,000 saved for a down payment, for example, you can use it as a down payment for a home between $300k (10% down payment) or $150k (20% down payment). Putting less down often, but not always, requires you to pay private mortgage insurance (PMI), which increases your monthly housing cost but is tax deductible.
If you can’t afford a 10%-20% down payment on your home, but have good credit and steady income, a mortgage broker may assist you with a combination or FHA mortgage. In that, you’re taking out a first mortgage up to 80% of the value of the home, and a second mortgage for the remaining amount. While the rate on the second mortgage will be slightly higher, the interest on it is tax-deductible and combined payments should still be lower than a first mortgage with PMI. If you’re buying new, consider the Nehemiah Program to get assistance with your down-payment.

2.Make sure final acceptance is predicated on a suitable home inspection. Request the following surveys and reports: inspection, pests, dry rot, radon, hazardous materials, landslides, flood plains, earthquake faults and crime statistics. (You will generally have 7-10 days to complete inspections — be sure that your agent explains this fully to you when signing the purchase and sales contract.)
A home inspection costs between $150 and $500, depending on the area, but it can prevent a $100,000 mistake. This is especially true with older homes, as you want to avoid financial landmines such as lead-paint, asbestos insulation and mold.
If you use the inspection results to negotiate down the price of your purchase, do not refer to the inspection or bids for work in your contract. The lending institution may request to see a copy of your inspection, which will supersede their appraiser’s evaluation.

Have a home energy audit completed on the house and ensure that the contract is contingent on the outcome. Getting a home energy audit is an essential part of the home buying experience. Not knowing what it really costs to heat and cool a home is a potential financial disaster waiting to happen. Home buyers make “guesstimates” when figuring out a new home budget. These estimates can be significantly incorrect and place families into dire financial circumstances.

4.Close escrow. This is usually conducted in an escrow office and involves signing documents related to the property and your mortgage arrangements. The packet of papers includes the deed, proving you now own the house, and the title, which shows that no one else has any claim to it or lien against it. If any issues remain, money may be set aside in escrow until they are resolved, which acts as an incentive for the seller to quickly remedy any problem areas in order to receive all that is owed.
Consider using your real-estate lawyer to review closing documents and represent you at closing. Again, realtors are unable to give you legal advice. Lawyers may charge $200-$400 for the few minutes they’re actually there, but they’re paid to look out for you.

Pending home sales fall across the United States, latest index shows

Pending home sales in the United States cooled in September for the second month in a row, taking them to their second lowest index reading in 2015, according to the latest index.
All four major regions experienced a pullback in activity in September, the Pending Home Sales Index, a forward looking indicator based on contract signings, from the National Association of Realtors shows.

Pending home sales fall across the United States, latest index shows

Pending home sales fall across the United States, latest index shows

The index declined 2.3% to 106.8 in September from a slightly downwardly revised 109.3 in August but is still 3% above September 2014 when it was 103.7 find here. With last month’s decline, the index is now at its second lowest level of the year but has still increased year on year for 13 straight months.

Lawrence Yun, NAR chief economist, said that a combination of factors likely led to September’s dip in contract signings. ‘There continues to be a dearth of available listings in the lower end of the market for first time buyers and realtors in many areas are reporting stronger competition than what’s normal this time of year because of stubbornly low inventory conditions,’ he explained.

‘Additionally, the rockiness in the financial markets at the end of the summer and signs of a slowing US economy may be causing some prospective buyers to take a wait and see approach,’ he added.

Despite contract activity softening from the more robust levels seen earlier this year, Yun believes the housing market will still likely be one of the brighter spots in the economy in coming months.

‘With interest rates hovering around 4%, rents rising at a near eight year high, and job growth holding strong, albeit at a more modest pace than earlier this year, the overall demand for buying should stay at a healthy level despite some weakness in the overall economy,’ he added.

The PHSI in the Northeast fell 4% to 89.6 in September, but is still 3.9% above a year ago. In the Midwest the index declined 2.5% to 104.7 in September, but remains 4.3% above September 2014.

Pending home sales in the South decreased 2.6% to an index of 118.3 in September and are now 0.1% below last September. The index in the West inched back 0.2% in September to 104.4, but is still 6.6% above a year ago.

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